We were in our final stretch of our time in Newfoundland and still had a couple of bucket list places to check off, which were Fogo Island and Gros Morne National Park. But we first stopped in Terra Nova National Park to sort ourselves out (pro tip: $5.90 per adult for a day pass grants you access to laundry, dumping, water refill and showers, and we even had the entire day use area to ourselves for the afternoon).

We met a lovely local from the Twillingate area while we were doing laundry and he set us off on a new path towards a place called Lumsden Beach. But we first stopped for the night in Gambo because we saw on iOverlander that the Trailway Cabin Lounge welcomes boondockers with open arms, so we camped there for a night. The locals will always tell you that the magic happens when you get off the transatlantic highway because all of the best things are centered around the old highway that ran through all of these coastal towns. Gambo is really pretty and located right on the inlet, so we had a prime view of the moon and the sunrise and Xiaozhang had the perfect place to explore. The lounge itself is a really cute, fun little bar.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-trailway-lounge

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-truck

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-moonlight

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondockingmoonlight

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-truck-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-on-a-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-cat-leash

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking-truck

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gambo-boondocking

It was time to hit the road 24 hours later and head up to Lumsden Beach but on the way we passed by the Barbour Living Heritage Village, a tiny little town that’s nicknamed “the Venice of Newfoundland” and filled with restored heritage properties of the Barbours, a prominent local merchant family. We figured it would be worth a stop.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-barbour-living-heritage-village

We finally made it to Lumsden an hour later, where you’re free to pull your rig right up on the big, sandy beach and park for the night. It was so stunning and peaceful, and quickly made our top ten list of boondocking spots. We walked the beach, watched people ride their ATVs and motorcycles on the sand, and even found a giant reflecting pool in the middle of the beach to play with. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-truck

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-truck-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-couple-reflection

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-couple-reflection

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-truck

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-truck-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-truck-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-boondock

As pretty as the beach was, we couldn’t stay long because we had to get up at the crack of dawn the next day so that we could catch our ferry to Fogo Island. But that did mean that we caught another gorgeous sunrise:

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-lumsden-beach-sunrise

We arrived after an hour’s drive at the ferry terminal in a town called Farewell. The trip to Fogo Island only cost us $34 round trip including tax for two humans, a cat and our rig, bargain of the century! It was a beautiful hot and sunny day, perfect for the hour and fifteen minute crossing. Once we landed on Fogo and drove 15 minutes north, however, that all changed as sunshine gave way to rolling fog and a chill in the air. You can easily experience all seasons and weather patterns in the course of an afternoon here. Such is life on Fogo.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-ferry-fogo-island

So why were we on this tiny little island off of an island in the hinterland of Newfoundland? Well, Fogo first caught our attention when I spotted an article about the incredible architecture of the Fogo Island Inn (more on that later). And then the more we researched, the more we came to discover that this place seemed to have its own special brand of magic. This was proven exponentially as we spent more time there.

As people are fond of saying, Fogo’s not so much a place as a state of mind. If Iceland and Ireland had a love child, it would be Fogo. Throw in a bit of laid-back island culture and hygge vibes for good measure, eh voila. Its people (population around 2500)  are renowned for their friendliness and can-do attitude, the landscape can feel otherworldly, and the island even uniquely has 7 seasons that they count: winter, pack ice, spring, trap berth, summer, berry and late fall. We happened to land in the middle of berry season, when people forage the hills for all 26 varieties of edible berries. The partridgeberry is their most prominent, otherwise internationally known as a lingonberry. Yup, the same lingonberry that reigns supreme at IKEA. But that’s one of the many impressive things about Fogo, that the people (including restaurateurs) forage the land for most of their ingredients. It’s pretty much a given that every restaurant is farm-to-table for this reason, and cod, moose and berries are among the staples.

Our first stop was in the town of Fogo Island, home to Brimstone Head hiking trail and one of the corners of flat Earth (or so claim the members of the Flat Earth Society). Of course we had to see it for ourselves, so we parked KKBB and off we trotted up the steep rock known as Brimstone Head. Let me tell you, it’s a hell of an uphill climb to the corner of flat Earth! But the hike had this really cool, supernatural ambiance due to the air being so thick with fog. The silver-hued water peeking out from the fog had this ethereal beauty to it, which in and of itself made the trek worthwhile.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head

It didn’t take long for us to reach the top and to take in the observation deck and signage. It was kind of fascinating to learn that Fogo Island shares flat Earth honors with Hydra Greece, Papua New Guinea and the Bermuda Triangle. At any rate, we came, we saw, we shrugged, and then we climbed back down. The sun was starting by then to break from the clouds and shine a light. So….we went up in a fog and came back down basked in sunbeams. I guess you could say that our trip to Flat Earth enlightened us? Then we had a lovely lunch in town at the renowned Bangbelly Cafe before setting off for the Fogo Island Inn. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-brimstone-head-flat-earth

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-bangbelly-cafe

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-bangbelly-cafe

So, back to the incredibly inspiring story of the inn. The people of Fogo Island have lived in relative isolation from the rest of the country since Europeans settled there in the 1700s. Cod fishing had been their livelihood for most of this time and local fisherman would operate under a barter system with their catches. Things drastically changed when factory fishing nearly wiped out all the cod, prompting a moratorium on cod fishing in 1992. The loss of its main livelihood nearly sent the island into economic collapse as 500 years of fishing coming to an end put 30,000 Canadians out of work.

That’s where Zita Cobb comes in. Zita is the daughter of a Fogo Island fisherman, the 6th of 7 kids. When her dad saw that the big fishing ships were coming in and gobbling the fish, he didn’t quite understand it but he surmised that they were “turning fish into money”. So he encouraged Zita to go to business school so that she could study the money machine and understand how it works. She followed his advice and went to study in Ottawa. Flash forward some years later and she’d made millions in fiber optics. But as she’s said, the tech industry “eats their young and spits them out” and it was stressful. And then Fogo fell into collapse, prompting Zita to quit tech and come home to invest some of her fortune in her community. She first started up the charitable Shorefast Foundation for the arts, which included the Fogo Island Arts, “a residency-based contemporary art venue for artists, designers, writers, filmmakers, musicians, curators, and thinkers from around the world.” The chosen artists come to Fogo and stay in these stunning studios on the sea that are designed by Todd Saunders, a Newfoundland-born architect. They work in the studios but actually live in cottages in the nearby villages so that they can be among the locals as opposed to being separate entities in their artist colonies. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

But because philanthropy alone doesn’t pay the bills (and because some other locals criticized her doling out scholarships as “sending all of our children away”), along came the crown jewel of the Fogo Island Inn. Zita invested 10 million of her own money and the government ponied up another 10 million to build the inn, which is a luxury hotel and architectural gem (also designed by Saunders) that sits atop one of the cliffs overlooking Iceberg Alley. But it’s not luxury for luxury’s sake. It’s a social business model with the intention of economically reviving the community while employing one third of the island’s population. Guests receive literature that lists the “economic nutrition”, or percentages of where their funds go, like you would see ingredients on a cereal box. Most of the money goes back to the locals, who are employed for everything from hotel staff to the artisans who make the quilts and wooden baskets that decorate the rooms. Guests are also assigned at check-in to a local, who then picks them up in their car and takes them on a tour of the island. By the end of their tour, guests are thoroughly educated on the culture and history of the island and the lives of the people. Zita doesn’t even consider herself the owner of the property, rather “the innkeeper”. Small wonder that Zita was the first social entrepreneur to be inducted into the Canadian Business Hall of Fame. 

They weren’t giving tours of the inside when we were there or allowing anyone other than hotel guests into the bar or dining room, all due to covid, but we were able to take a trail up from the church and walk around the inn’s grounds. That alone was absolutely stunning to behold. The 29 room inn is designed with the goal in mind to “find new ways with old things” (symbolic of forging a future that’s based on the past), and incorporates traditional Newfoundland outport architecture from its materials to the way it blends with the landscape. The stilts are a nod to the island’s fishing huts. We actually went back the following day as well because we wanted to catch it in the sunlight, so here are some contrasting photos of both days.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-inn

We made one more quick stop down the hill to the fishing village of Tilting. It’s a designated national historic site because it’s one of the last Newfoundland outport communities to have retained its full range of buildings associated with the family-based inshore fishery.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-tilting

We afterwards found ourselves a little spot tucked away on the water to boondock for the night because we knew that we wanted to spend a day exploring the coastal hiking trails that pass by a couple of the art studios. Luckily, we woke up to a spectacular, sunny day and wasted no time heading out to the nearby Squish studio. The trail picked up right by where we were parked and took us through the tiny village near the studio. The studio itself is perched right on the coast and has this trapezoidal shape that appears “squished”. Its tapered exterior deflects the strong coastal winds and it’s completely off-grid, with a compost toilet, wood burning stove, and solar panels to generate electricity.  

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-squish-studio

We next hiked over to the Long studio, which sits across the inlet from the Fogo Island Inn and was the first studio to be completed for the Arts Residency Project. Like the Squish studio, this one’s also off-the-grid and generates its power using solar panels, treats its own waste and uses both rain and grey water. It’s a prefab timber construction with three different sections: the opened but covered entrance area represents spring, the exposed central portion represents summer and the enclosed main body protects from winter.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-bench

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-hospitality-center

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-walking sticks

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

After ogling the Long for I don’t know how long, we continued up the trail and took in the breathtaking scenery. The trail eventually culminates at the Great Auk sculpture that sits on the northern coast. The great auk was a bird, most closely resembling a penguin, that populated the northern Atlantic coast for thousands of years until European colonists hunted them to the point of extinction around the 1800s. It’s a memorial created by artist Todd McGrain as part of his Lost Bird Project. The bird faces in the direction of the location of its sister sculpture in Iceland.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-long-studio

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-great-auk

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-great-auk

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-great-auk

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike-inn

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-coastal-hike

Hiking along the rugged coast and seeing these incredible structures was the best experience and one that won’t soon be forgotten. And then we got back to the hospitality center, where this sweet-looking old lady had been manning the station all day. She saw us and asked, “Did you have a good walk?” Yes, yes we did. “Did it make you happy?” Yeah…actually, yeah it really did. She smiled sweetly and said, “Well, that’s more or less the aim.” We thanked her and told her what a paradise her island is. She beamed, thanked us and warmly said, “We’re so glad you’re here.”

When asked why the people of Fogo are so welcoming to strangers, Zita herself answered with “It’s because they have no fear.” That really sticks with me. They love their community and they rally to find practical ways to do what’s always in the best interest of the community. But they don’t sweat the small things. Nor do they waste words or energy on petty things. They simply savor their moments and love their place, along with the people in it, with all their heart. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-bench

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-bench

We were starving after all of our trekking in the fresh, sea air. And a lovely lady we’d met outside of the Squish studio tipped us off about a restaurant in town that was owned and operated by a couple of former cooks from the Fogo Island Inn. So hey, we may not have been able to have the inn experience but we sure as hell couldn’t pass up the next best thing, so off we went and it did not disappoint. Scoff serves up fine dining-calibur food in a cozy, casual environment. We had incredible craft cocktails, salt cod pierogies and split a lemon meringue tart with toasted marshmallow dollops. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-scoff-craft-cocktails

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-scoff-restaurant-cod-pergies

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-scoff-restaurant-dessert

All good things must come to an end, and so our time on Fogo was winding down. We drove to a boondocking spot that was close to the ferry and got ready to hop the boat the next morning. We watched the dusk silhouettes and looked at the Big Dipper.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-dusk

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-fogo-island-dusk

It was a straight line for us from Fogo to Gros Morne, Canada’s second-largest national park. We made it all the way to western Newfoundland in a couple of days and entered the park. We kicked off our sightseeing tour at the famed Tablelands, one of only two places on the planet where you can see the Earth’s mantle exposed. These rocks are half a billion years in the making, having formed deep within the Earth’s mantle. The mantle got tossed up from the ocean floor onto the Earth’s surface when continents collided, and we’re able to now see on the surface what’s been poetically called “the Earth’s inner soul”. The rocks also lack life-sustaining nutrients, so this is about the only place in the park without wildlife. It has a nice, surreal feel to it, like walking on another planet. We got there early enough to see it in sunlight and even though some rain set in towards the end, we were graced with a rainbow right before we left. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands-rainbow

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-tablelands-rainbow

We knew that we were in for a pretty strong rainstorm, so we looked for shelter right after leaving Tablelands. We found refuge at the Anglican church in Sally’s Cove. KKBB blended right in, as she always does, and we stayed dry in between admiring views of the ocean from across the highway. Pretty sure it’s what baby Jesus would have wanted. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-church-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-church-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-ocean-boondock

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-ocean-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-ocean-sunset

Then the next morning we drove to Western Brook Pond and hopped on a boat tour of the iconic fjord, which was just amazing. You can only get a front row view of the fjord either by boat or by guided hike, so we opted for the former (the cheaper and easier option). We arrived at the dock after about a half hour hike from the parking lot to the water. It felt like we were in Norway. We even had our one and only moose sighting of the trip, spotting one from the boat wading through the water. 

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-waterfall

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-waterfall

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-waterfall

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-waterfall

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-selfie

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-western-brook-pond-boat-tour-fjord

We needed one more pretty place to spend the night, so we pushed further north a bit to Arches Provincial Park. Sea arches just never get old for us…if we spot them on a map, we’re pretty much there. And this one just north of Gros Morne had three arches. We also had the entire place to ourselves, so we explored before enjoying one of the more peaceful nights we’ve passed.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-arches-provincial-park-sea-sunset

Although we had plans to head all the way north to l’Anse aux Meadows, the early viking settlement, we had to cut things a little short when we heard that covid was again on the rise and the Atlantic Bubble was about to be suspended. That meant that we also missed out on our beer at the end of the world. But we covered a lot of ground in 3.5 weeks and had so many special and treasured encounters, even on our last day. We passed through Deer Lake and knew that we wanted to bring home a bag of Gros Morne coffee, so we paid a little visit to Gros Morne Coffee Roasters. What we thought was going to be a cafe turned out to be their headquarters, but owners Dave and Laurie warmly welcomed us and made us lattes. The four of us sat at the table in their office kitchen and shared stories, which was the perfect send-off from this place that’s been so open and generous on every level. (And it’s damn fine coffee, to quote Twin Peaks!)

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-coffee

And then it was time to hit the road to Port-aux-Basques to catch our ferry back to Nova Scotia. This was definitely one of the most special and memorable parts of our travels to date. Thank you Newfoundland for the many gifts you’ve given us and for memories that we’ll truly cherish forever.

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-moose-signage

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-gros-morne-park-moose-signage

CATLIFE

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat

newfoundland-vanlife-road-trip-cat